The times when schoolchildren were taught in labor lessons how to disassemble and repair a burnt-out iron and how to protect it from rust are a thing of the past. Modern models of irons are high-tech and reliable devices that require virtually no repairs. They come with instructions for use, and failure to follow them can lead to difficulties in operation and even breakdowns.

How to use your iron

The basic steps to take when ironing are uncomplicated:

1. choose exactly the temperature mode that corresponds to the material in question and is indicated on the product label;
2. fill the evaporator compartment with water specially designed for steam humidifiers or make sure the tap water is free from impurities and salts;
3. after finishing ironing, inspect the heating surface and wipe it with a piece of damp cloth and, if necessary, clean it immediately;
4. avoid twisting the cord;
5. avoid falls and bumps – only then will the plastic parts and electronic “stuffing” serve long and trouble-free;
6. after finishing ironing, wait for the appliance to cool down completely and carefully wrap the cord around the handle or along a special groove.

Such simple preventive measures will relieve you from the problem of how to clean the iron at home or look for a maker to fix it. However, even the most careful hostess occasionally has questions about how to clean the iron from carbon deposits, what to do with a yellowish plaque on the soleplate, or why the steam humidifier stopped working. Such problems can be solved quickly and easily.

How to extend the life of your iron

How easily your iron glides over your fabrics is what determines the quality of your ironing. After prolonged ironing, it is advisable to clean the heating surface with vinegar or citric acid, then wipe dry with a soft cloth. The same solutions are used to moisten cotton pads, which should be used regularly to clean the holes in the soleplate.

Antique cast iron irons were tidied up by scrubbing away rust stains with sand and emery cloth and then treating the bottom with wax or paraffin. In the list of ways to remove soot on the iron, paraffin or wax are widely used for modern models, but abrasives (sandpaper, metal brushes and sponges, knives) cannot be used. To correctly solve the problem of how to clean the iron from soot, you need to consider the properties of the material from which its soleplate is made:

• Aluminum. This metal is soft and easily scratched, and synthetic fabrics can leave hard-to-remove burn spots on it. To quickly remove dirt from melted synthetics, the heater should be set at maximum power, then remove the softened burnt layer, and wipe off the remaining traces with acetone or nail polish.Metal surface can be cleaned and toothpaste (apply to the burnt mark, let dry, then wipe and polish). It is also recommended to iron with a hot iron a cloth with fine salt scattered on it. After that, you should restore the smooth surface by rubbing it with a piece of cloth, in which wax or paraffin is wrapped, while it is heated. Slightly burnt bottoms are better cleaned with a pencil and other gentle means.
• Stainless steel is very strong and virtually impervious to corrosion, so you can remove stains from it just like you can from aluminum. However, stainless steel has a special coating (which is specified in the instructions), it will be correct to give preference to gentle methods of cleaning.
• Ceramic is very fragile (except for certain models of “Tefal”), so such a soleplate must be carefully protected from chipping. It can be cleaned with toothpaste, vinegar, citric acid, household detergents, as well as preparations for cleaning glass ceramics. Cleaning ceramics with hydrogen peroxide or hydroperitide gives a good result, of course, pencil. A cheap, effective and safe cleaning agent is a potion of baking soda, which is applied to the cold bottom and scrubbed with a soft cloth after drying, as well as laundry soap.
• Teflon, commonly found in Tefal irons, is best cleaned with a pencil, using it according to the supplied instructions. In addition, you can use special products and sponges for Teflon. If you want to quickly remove burnt spots from the Teflon layer, it is recommended to use citric acid or peroxide, and paraffin will help to restore the lost smoothness.

Descaling

The best way to keep your humidifier working properly for as long as possible is to always fill the tank with softened water, which is sold in the store (or at least boiled). Modern irons are often equipped with a self-cleaning button, and if you notice that the laundry is not humidifying properly when ironing, you should immediately perform all the appropriate operations according to the instructions. If there is no such button, you should know how to clean the iron at home from the inside.

The often recommended advice to pour a solution of vinegar or citric acid into the tank is not safe, as these ingredients can damage the parts of the internal device.

A more gentle way to remove limescale is as follows:

1. Take a wide saucepan or frying pan;
2. Place sticks or coins in the bottom of this dish so that the sole of the iron placed inside is not close to it;
3. Prepare a solution of vinegar, citric acid or an anti-scaling agent, boil it and pour it into the pan. The level of liquid should be one and a half to two centimeters higher than the soleplate;
4. After 10 minutes, remove the iron, clean the holes with cotton swabs, rinse the reservoir with clean water

Security

Unfortunately, accidents and mishaps are not uncommon in homes equipped with gas stoves. This is often due to violations of the rules for the use of gas equipment. To protect yourself and your neighbors from trouble, you should follow some rules:

• Do not hide the valve that cuts off the gas supply behind false panels and cabinets: it must be in the access area;
• to install and connect a new stove, call a specialist: in the case of a problem, such as a gas leak, the master will be able to fix it in time;
• choose models with gas control – a system that automatically shuts off the gas in case of a flameout, and an electric ignition. The first feature will help avoid gas leaks, the second – to protect yourself and children from burns and accidents. Also, families with small children should pay attention to the lock function. If it is present, the ignition will be triggered only when you perform actions in a certain order;
• Regularly call a specialist to check all connections, gas pressure and the condition of the equipment;
• It is a good idea to buy a gas leak detector and install good ventilation equipment in the kitchen;
• Do not install a gas panel over a dishwasher or washing machine. It gets very hot, and the heat in such quantities can harm both the appliances and the stove itself.

What is the best material

The difficulty of caring for a gas stove depends on what material the cooktop is made of. Most often there are models with enamel coating. They are also the most problematic among their counterparts. Care of enamel means using gentle products, avoiding abrasives and constant monitoring of the appearance of cracks and chips.

Choosing a hob made of stainless steel will greatly simplify life: scratches are not visible on such a surface, it can be wiped with any detergents and sponges. The only thing on it will be visible stains from water, so the panel will have to wipe dry.

Stoves made of glass ceramic and look good, and quite practical to use: flat and flat surface does not create difficulties during cleaning. Of the disadvantages: you need to wash such a panel with special sponges and cream products, the cost of which is quite high. Runaway food and sugar must be removed from the glass-ceramic instantly, otherwise there will remain a stain, which is almost impossible to clean.

How to clean

Clean the stove regularly: wipe with a sponge with warm water and a drop of detergent after each cooking, once a week arrange her a big wash. This should be done as follows: shut off the gas, remove the grid and burners, wash them with a grease remover, wipe the stove itself with warm or hot water with the same grease remover.

Do not leave the product on the enameled stove for a long time – it can corrode the coating. To clean the enamel, it is better to use baking soda and vinegar. Problem areas are covered with baking soda, warm vinegar is poured on top. Then we wait until the sizzle passes, and remove the agent together with the grease with a soft sponge. After this procedure, the stove should be rinsed well, so that no soda remains on it. To prevent water from getting into the channel through which the gas flows, it can be gently blocked with a crumpled cloth.

Stoves made of stainless steel can be cleaned with abrasives with granules only if the panel is not mirror-smooth. In general, the care of such a surface is not different from the care of enamel. The only thing is that aggressive chemicals can be left on stainless steel for several hours.

Stoves made of glass ceramic should not be cleaned when they have not yet cooled – there is a risk of getting cracks. Such a surface should be cleaned with special means. It is best to use melamine or cellulose sponges, which are good at removing dirt and grease and give a shine.

You will need a toothbrush to clean the gas regulators. You can clean this area with a creamy product or even toothpaste – it does a pretty good job on dirt. To get under the valves, try lifting their caps a little and sticking a match in there. The narrow gap will help the toothbrush penetrate.

To clean the flame spreaders, grills and burners, you should soak them in warm water with a grease remover for half an hour, then wipe with a sponge. If these parts are cast iron, you can use metal sponges and brushes. To enhance the washing effect, you can use 72% laundry soap.

For polishing, you can use microfiber cloths or soft cellulose foam cloths.

Rechargeable batteries have a number of undeniable advantages compared to their disposable counterparts. These include:

• Multiple recharging, which gives years of use;
• Lower cost of use in terms of operating hours;
• Possibility of installation in equipment with recharging function (flashlights with a dynamo, etc.).
• Such batteries pay for themselves in 3-4 months, after which there is a net savings. But this is only possible if you know how to properly charge rechargeable batteries. We have compiled basic information on this topic.

Types of batteries

Manufacturers now make five types of replaceable disposable batteries. They differ in the type of electrolytic fluid inside, as well as the material from which the electrodes are made.

1. Salt batteries. Marked by the Latin letter R. They first appeared in the middle of the last century and replaced the batteries based on manganese and zinc, which were used then. They use ammonium chloride as the electrolyte, and the cathode and anode are made of zinc and calcium. The advantage of these batteries is that they are cheap. However, they have a minimum shelf life and lose up to 40% of their charge and do not work well in sub-zero temperatures. It is recommended to insert them into remote controls, wall clocks and kitchen scales.
2. Alkaline. Marked with LR and the word Alkaline. They have an affordable price and long life, high capacity and tightness. Suitable for devices with moderate and high power consumption. They can be inserted into players, cameras, tonometers, children’s toys. If used instead of salt, you can greatly increase the operating time before battery replacement.
3. Mercury batteries. These batteries use mercury oxide, which gives high capacitance and electrical energy density. They can operate at very low air temperatures. Because of the potential danger to health these batteries are not widely used in consumer applications.
4. Lithium batteries. Marked with the letters CR. The cathode in these batteries is made of lithium, which gives high capacity with low weight. Current characteristics do not change depending on the load, storage life reaches 12 years. They are used to power various electronics. Minus – a relatively high cost. Read more how to choose CR123 battery charger.
5. Silver. Marked by the abbreviation SR. Their anode and cathode are made of zinc and silver, respectively. These batteries have a very high lifespan, density and capacity. Because of their high cost, they are used only in watches and similar devices.

How to identify rechargeable batteries?

This is an important question, despite the simplicity of the wording. Only special AA and AAA batteries are to be charged. Attempting to insert an ordinary battery into the charger can end badly. Up to and including cell combustion and mains short circuit.

The battery can be distinguished by several characteristic features:

• The presence of the inscription rechargeable (in English – rechargeable). This means that the cell can be recharged after discharging.
• Specifying the capacity in mAh (1500 mAh, etc.) indicates that this is a rechargeable battery. It is worth noting that some disposable lithium batteries are also marked accordingly.
• The voltage of rechargeable cells is predominantly 1.2 V, whereas conventional batteries have 1.5 V.
• In case the marking has been erased or is missing completely, you can use a multimeter to find out the voltage and the type of power supply.

How do I charge rechargeable batteries?

The quality and duration of use is directly determined by the charger you use for this purpose. It can conventionally belong to one of two types:

1. Standard. Usually come with the manufacturer or sold under the same brand as the batteries themselves. This should also include all the “no-names”.
2. Professional. Multifunctional equipment. Sold only separately from the batteries. Brands that produce really high quality devices are few.

The problem with standard chargers is that they are only designed to work with batteries of the same manufacturer. Their functionality is reduced to a minimum. There is no check of the level of charge, no control over the process of charging and no possibility to adjust the operation of the device.

With standard chargers it is difficult to calculate how much you need to charge the batteries. Here you have to calculate the charger operating time, which will not destroy the battery, manually. And you can only charge them in pairs, which in different states is guaranteed to shorten the battery life.

Professional models are devoid of these disadvantages. They are equipped with microprocessors, so they work with batteries carefully and intelligently. Such chargers have a flexible system of settings, allowing them to set optimal parameters for each individual battery. All useful information is shown on the display. Such variability helps to get the most out of the batteries due to the careful attitude. And that is up to 1500 charge/discharge cycles.

Instead of a conclusion

Especially good is the fact that microprocessor chargers give an unambiguous answer on how to charge the batteries for the first time. Special preset modes are responsible for this. For example, many models have a “Training” option where the device brings the battery into working mode through full charge/discharge cycles.

Buying high-quality batteries and a “smart” charger guarantees their long and full operation.

But do you have to resort directly to chemical and sometimes aggressive cleaners to remove grease splatters and food residues? Not if you try our cleaning tips! Because these are all based on home remedies that you usually already have at home. This protects the environment, is easy on the wallet and your health and saves you a trip to the nearest drugstore or supermarket.

How to clean the oven with baking soda

Baking soda has long been a popular miracle cure, especially when it comes to cleaning. Baking soda is the name for sodium hydrogen carbonate and is found in many everyday items, such as baking powder and even laundry detergent.

Sodium bicarbonate reacts with acids when it comes into contact with moisture and then starts to foam – and this even loosens strongly stuck dirt.

1. mix bicarbonate of soda with water in the ratio 1:1
2. apply the mixture to the incrustations
3. leave to act for about 30 minutes, depending on the degree of soiling
4. after the mixture has dried, sweep out the powder
5. remove the rest with a damp cloth

Tip: Use baking soda to make your cooktop shine!

To make your ceramic hob shine again, put a few squirts of baking soda and some water on it, then wipe it with a soft cloth. If you have steel burners that need cleaning, put them in a zip bag overnight with a drop of bleach as well as some water. The next morning, just wash them off with soapy water and they will look like new again!

How to clean the oven with baking powder

Not only suitable for baking cakes, but also ideal for cleaning the oven afterwards: baking powder! It’s as simple as this:

1. mix one sachet of baking powder with three tablespoons of water.
2. apply the mixture to the incrustations and let it work for about 30 minutes, depending on how dirty it is
3. after the mixture has dried, sweep out the powder and remove the rest with a damp cloth.

Cleaning the oven with vinegar

Finally an end to scrubbing is promised by vinegar, which is ideal for removing grease splatters, apart from salad dressing:

1. mix vinegar and washing-up liquid
2. give mixture on the dirty places
3. rub with a damp sponge until foam is formed
4. leave to act
5. wipe out the remains with a cloth

If the stains are particularly heavy, you can repeat the process or use the even more intensive vinegar essence. Here you can read how to do it:

1. fill a heat-resistant bowl or casserole dish with vinegar essence and water.
2. place in the oven at about 150 degrees for 45 minutes
3. take out the bowl and remove the loosened dirt with a rag or cloth

Cleaning the oven with lemon

It is already known that the citrus fruit can do a lot more than just taste good. But the fact that you can also get the oven sparkling clean with the fragrant fruit makes the lemon the ideal helper for dirt and bad odors.

To do this, place a heat-resistant bowl or baking dish with some water and lemon juice in the oven and set it to about 120 degrees for about an hour. The steam and acid from the lemon will then loosen stubborn stains, which can then be wiped out with a damp cloth.

Cleaning burnt-in and heavy soiling in the oven

To get to the bottom of even the toughest grime – and save time and money, too – you can easily make your own cleaner:

1. mix white wine vinegar with baking soda and essential oil or lemon juice.
2. apply the paste and leave it on for about half an hour.
3. then simply wipe it out!

Cleaning the oven with salt

Something has dripped onto the floor while baking? Then salt helps!

1. moisten the oven floor
2. sprinkle the affected areas with salt
3. heat the oven (50 degrees is enough) until the salt is brown
4. let it cool down
5. sweep out the salt and wipe the remains with a cloth

Cleaning the oven with shaving foam

It’s Sunday and you have spontaneously arranged to cook. The oven is dirty and then you realize that you don’t have any cleaning agent left in the house. In such emergencies helps: shaving foam! May sound a little strange, but helps optimally to quickly ensure cleanliness:

1. spray on shaving foam generously
2. let it work for about 30 minutes
3. wipe out and ready!

When should you clean the tap?

In professional catering, every host is responsible for the health of his guests. Therefore, daily hygiene and cleaning is especially important there. But also tapping plants for the domestic use want to be maintained. In order to prevent the tapped beverages from being contaminated, you should clean your equipment regularly and on certain occasions:

• Before first use: Before you use your dispenser for the first time, you should rinse it once to remove residues and dirt that have arisen during production. You can read about what you should do in the operating instructions for the system. For home dispensers, it is often sufficient to tap the first glass and pour away the contents.
• After changing the keg: Before you connect a new keg, you should thoroughly clean the entire dispensing unit (hoses and tap).
• If the system has not been used for a long time: The same applies here as when changing the keg.
• Perform a basic cleaning of the dispensing unit before you put the system back into operation. If you are using hoses supplied with the keg, you only need to rinse the tap thoroughly.
• After each use: Each time you have used your dispensing unit, you should clean the drip tray, the drip grid, the tap and, if necessary, the hoses once with hot water.

What are the different types of cleaning?

Depending on how dirty a tap unit is, there are different methods to clean it. Also, it depends on the device how you should do the cleaning.

Simple cleaning with water

To take care of a hobby tap, you don’t need to put a lot of effort. The most important thing is to rinse the individual components once after each use to remove liquids and foam. Hot water is usually sufficient for this. If dirt has accumulated, you can also use a little washing-up liquid.

To flush the hoses of the system, a so-called cleaning balloon is suitable. It helps you to pump water through the hose.

Cleaning in the dishwasher

Some Hobby dispensing units can also be cleaned in the dishwasher. You can find out whether the components of your dispenser are dishwasher-safe in the operating instructions. But: Even if the dispensing unit is suitable for cleaning in the dishwasher, you should not do without a pre-wash. The hoses in particular should be rinsed separately beforehand, as this is where residues form most quickly.

Cleaning the hoses with a sponge

Special cleaning sets are available for cleaning the hoses of professional dispensers. They contain sponges that are pressed through the hose with the help of water pressure and thus remove even stubborn dirt. However, this method cannot be used with every dispenser. You can also find out whether it is suitable for your model in the operating instructions or directly from the manufacturer.

Cleaning with chemical cleaning agents

Professional dispensers are treated from time to time with special cleaning agents to prevent the formation of bacteria. They are usually used when a dispenser has not been used for a very long time. The cleaning agent is pumped into the system and through all the pipes via a fresh water tank. There it takes effect for some time. Fresh water is then pumped through the system until all remnants of the cleaning agent have been removed.

Again, home dispensing equipment does not usually need to be cleaned with special cleaners. If in doubt, ask the manufacturer whether this method is suitable and necessary for your device.

What do you need for cleaning

How a dispenser should be cleaned always depends on the corresponding model. Many devices for home use come with a suitable cleaning kit. Some also have an integrated cleaning program that does most of the work for you. If you do it yourself, you only need a few things:

• warm to hot water
• a clean cloth
• if necessary some washing-up liquid
• if necessary a cleaning balloon (already included in some systems)

Note: If you are thinking about cleaning the lines of your dispenser with sponges, you will need some more equipment. In addition to the sponges, you will need either a special barrel or a fresh water connection. The system is connected to this to generate the water pressure that forces the sponges through the hoses. However, as described above, this method is not suitable for every tap.

In the following, we describe the common cleaning method for hobby dispensers without sponges and special cleaning agents.

Cleaning the Hobby dispenser: step by step

Once you have everything ready for the cleaning action, you are ready to go:

1. Unscrew the tap and rinse it in hot water. If it is stuck, you can use some dishwashing detergent.
2. Detach the hoses from the keg and the system and rinse them in water as well. The water should not be too hot, otherwise the material can be damaged. If possible, use a cleaning balloon to rinse the hoses thoroughly. Make sure that no foam remains.
3. Remove the drip tray and the drip grid and clean them with water and some dishwashing detergent. Use the rag to remove all dirt residue.
4. Let all the cleaned parts dry and then reattach them to the tap.

Always freshly tapped with little effort

With a tap system for your home, you are fulfilling a small dream. However, to ensure that it works for a long time and that the beer remains germ-free, it also needs a little care. Fortunately, hot water is usually sufficient for cleaning. Hobby dispensers in particular are usually designed so that you can keep them clean with little effort. For professional systems, chemical cleaning may be necessary from time to time. If you are not quite sure which method is the right one, a look at the operating instructions or a call to the manufacturer will help.

In many cases, a cloth is sufficient to remove the dirt. However, if the residue is stuck and has long since dried up, even the best rag won’t help. And so that you don’t have to resort to chemicals right away, you can read here how to get your microwave sparkling clean again with very simple and natural home remedies.

Cleaning the microwave with vinegar

And there it is again – our friend and helper when it comes to dirt removal in a natural way: vinegar! When it is heated in the microwave with water, steam is created that dissolves even dried-on food residues and splashes, which can then be conveniently wiped out. Our tip: If the smell of vinegar is a bit too pungent for you, a slice of lemon can help, which you can simply add.

How it works:

• Pour water into a deep plate or cup and add 2 tablespoons of vinegar or vinegar essence (and optionally the slice of lemon).
• Put the plate or cup in the microwave and run it on high for 5-10 minutes
• Let everything cool down and wipe away the softened food residues with a damp cloth

Clean microwave with lemon

If you can’t stand the smell of vinegar at all, simply replace the vinegar completely with lemons.

It goes like this:

• Cut a fresh lemon into slices
• Put the slices on a deep plate and fill it with water.
• Put the plate into the appliance and turn on the highest setting for about 5 minutes.
• Let it cool down and wipe out the interior with a soft cloth and optionally some dishwashing liquid.

By the way, you can also use this trick on a clean microwave to simply provide a lovely scent.

Cleaning the microwave with dishwashing detergent

Dishwashing detergent has proven to be just as effective as vinegar or lemon against heavy soiling – and you really do always have it on hand. And even better:

The dishwashing method is the quickest among our tips and also works by steam.

• Fill a deep dish or cup with water and add a dash of dishwashing liquid.
• Heat the whole thing on the highest setting in the microwave – 1 minute is quite enough here
• Let everything cool down with the microwave door closed. Then the steam will soak in nicely.
• Remove the remains with a damp cloth or microfiber cloth

Cleaning the outside of the microwave

To ensure that the beautiful inner values of the appliance are also visible from the outside, you should also keep the microwave clean from the outside. Depending on where you have placed your microwave, a damp cloth is sufficient to wipe away dust deposits. If the appliance is close to the hob, you may also see a splash or two of grease. In this case – just like for the interior – a mixture of water and vinegar is a good solution: Dampen a cloth with the resulting liquid and wipe it over the surfaces.

Tips for long-lasting cleanliness

• The best way to avoid cleaning is to have nothing to clean in the first place! Cover your dishes with foil or a special microwave lid before heating them.
• To prevent small splashes from turning into stubborn encrustations, remove all debris quickly.
• Clean your microwave at regular intervals – as needed, but at least once a month.
• After each cleaning, leave the microwave door open so that the interior can dry properly.

The most important cleaning: Descaling

Limescale leaves traces everywhere: it coats water tanks and heating coils with a white layer. This can have a negative effect not only on the taste. The coffee machine also takes much longer to brew and consumes more electricity in the process. Therefore, you should descale your machine about every three months. Cleaning may also be necessary more often if the tap water in your residential area is rather hard, i.e. contains a lot of lime, or if you use the machine very often. You can find out the hardness of your drinking water with test strips, which you can buy at most pharmacies.

Instruction 1: For decalcifiers from drugstores and supermarkets

In drugstores and supermarkets you can find a wide range of descalers for household appliances: such as tabs, powders or liquid descalers. When buying, make sure that the product of your choice is suitable for filter coffee machines. Each package contains instructions for descaling. As a rule, you proceed as follows:

• Depending on the package instructions, add a certain amount of the descaler to the coffee maker’s water tank along with the specified amount of water.
• Then switch on the machine as for normal coffee making.
• When the liquid mixture has completely run through, the coffee machine is descaled.
• Now rinse with clear water to remove the remains of the descaler – in some cases, this may require several passes.

Remove calcification with common home remedies

Alternatively, there are various home remedies for descaling your coffee machine, some of which are less expensive. The advantage is that most of these products are already available in your household. In addition, such home remedies are often more environmentally friendly than ready-made limescale removers. For example, you can use vinegar essence, normal vinegar, baking soda or baking powder, which consists mainly of baking soda. Below you will find clear descaling instructions for the individual home remedies.

Instruction 2: Descale filter coffee machine with vinegar essence

• Mix one cup of vinegar essence with two cups of water and pour the liquid into the water tank of your coffee maker.
• Turn the machine on and let it run about halfway through.
• Now turn off the coffee maker and let the vinegar essence soak for 20 minutes.
• Then restart the machine and run the rest of the mixture through.
• Afterwards, rinse twice with water before the machine can be used again for the next pot of coffee.
• If the machine was very heavily calcified, further passes may be necessary.Ordinary vinegar is also suitable for descaling. However, since this contains a lower concentration of the lime-dissolving acetic acid, it must be dosed higher: Add about one cup of vinegar to one cup of water. Normal household vinegar does not contain any chemical additives. It is completely degradable and thus protects the environment.

Instruction 3: Decalcify filter coffee machine with baking soda or baking powder

• Add a bag of baking soda or baking powder to a liter of hot water.
• When it has dissolved, pour the mixture into the coffee maker and run it through once.
• As soon as baking soda comes into contact with lime, a chemical reaction takes place: The mixture foams up. If there is a lot of limescale, several rinses are necessary. When hardly any foam bubbles form, decalcification is complete.

Cleaning the exterior of the filter coffee maker

The coffee pot can be cleaned with normal washing-up liquid. If it is heavily calcified, rub it with citric acid or vinegar essence and then rinse it thoroughly. A tip: gloves will protect your hands from the acid.

You should always clean the hotplate immediately of small bits of dirt, such as coffee residue. If thorough cleaning is necessary, proceed as follows:

• Unplug the coffee maker and let it cool down completely.
• Now you can use normal cleaning agents such as washing-up liquid and a dishcloth. Be careful with corrosive or abrasive agents: Oven cleaner, grill spray, scouring cream or pot sponges would damage the surface.

Soft water for better coffee

Limescale deposits cannot be completely avoided. However, to ensure that you can continue to enjoy your morning lifesaver unimpaired, always fill your machine with water that is as low in lime as possible. If the tap water is hard and contains lime, it is a good idea to use a water filter. This sieves the lime out of the water and makes it softer, which should both benefit the taste and prevent new deposits.

Instead of water filters, you can also use baking soda to counteract calcification. To do this, add a pinch of the powder to the water tank every time you make coffee. This in turn softens the water and reduces the formation of limescale.

Another advantage is that sodium bicarbonate reduces the acidity of the coffee, making it easier to digest for people who are sensitive to acidity – and it even tastes better.

Does lime spoil the taste?

Coffee gourmets swear by it: Only the right water ensures perfect enjoyment. That makes sense. After all, coffee is 99 percent water. If it’s too hard, the beans can’t develop their aroma properly. If you think you’ve found the holy grail of coffee art with a water filter, you’re in for a disappointment. If too many minerals are removed from the water, its pH value becomes acidic and the coffee tastes the same. In extreme cases, even the coffee cream will curdle.

A neutral pH value of 7.0 and a water hardness level of “soft” are considered ideal. Complicated? Yes, but making coffee is a science in itself. And in the end, it’s mainly a matter of taste. Speaking of taste: In tests, most people couldn’t even taste whether the coffee was brewed with hard or soft water. Just try it out.

The clothes dryer smells foul

It can happen that the clothes dryer smells like rotten egg. The reason for this is usually moisture that is inside the dryer and remains there. This creates an environment where bacteria can multiply and produce foul-smelling gases.

A dryer that smells like rotten egg should be carefully cleaned in the first instance. (Clean clothes dryer) If the smell cannot be eliminated in this way, the moisture could be in a place that cannot be reached with the hands. In this case, a professional should be consulted, who will examine the device professionally and find the affected area.

Dryer stinks of chemicals

Smell of chemicals from the dryer usually occurs in appliances that are new. Components made of plastic can have quite an unpleasant odor of their own, but this will dissipate with use. However, if the dryer still smells chemical weeks after purchase, the specialist is again the right address. The problem may be due to a defect, which can then be repaired under warranty.

Fishy smell in the dryer is also possible

Fishy smell could hardly be more unpleasant. However, this is not uncommon with clothes dryers that are a bit older, because old components made of plastic emit substances over the years that create this smell. The first step should therefore be to look for a smelly component. This can best be done with your own nose. And once the culprit has been found, replacing it will help to counteract the stench.

When the dryer smells of mold

Mold not only smells unpleasant, but is also harmful to health. Therefore, as soon as the dryer emits a musty smell, action is needed. The reason for moldy smell often lies in the incorrect care of the clothes dryer. The condensation water may not be emptied often enough and filters may not be cleaned regularly. However, if you do these tasks conscientiously and clean the dryer thoroughly once, you should soon be rid of the moldy smell.

The dryer smells burnt – A warning sign

As soon as the dryer smells burnt, it should be switched off and not used until the cause is found. Dust inside the appliance may be responsible for this smell, which can be easily removed during cleaning. However, if the burnt smell persists, a cable fire could also be the cause. In this case, a professional will have to find the corresponding spot and repair it. Continued use could cause the dryer to catch fire.

Get to the bottom of other odors – for example, if the dryer smells like plastic or rubber.
If the foul odor coming from the clothes dryer doesn’t match any of the aforementioned options, the only thing that will help is a thorough search for causes. For example, laundry to which even after washing still clings strong-smelling dirt, could be responsible for unpleasant odors from the dryer. Here, only careful cleaning of the device helps to get rid of the culprit. After plastic or rubber often direct the dryers when they are new. Often the smell disappears after 3 to 5 uses.

Preventing bad odors from the dryer

The most important way to prevent a smelly dryer is to take care of it according to the operating instructions. Usually, manufacturers provide very precise information regarding the correct measures to take when the dryer smells and give tips on cleaning the condenser, filter, lint filter and water tank. Dust from the condenser is best removed with a vacuum cleaner.

The dryer should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a quarter. The drum can be cleaned very easily with a sponge and cleaning brush. As a home remedy, citric acid or even vinegar as well as conventional dishwashing detergent are recommended here. In addition, it is worthwhile to let the dryer run “empty” regularly and to put some vinegar into the drum beforehand. Thus, the home remedy can distribute itself and reach even difficult places.

Freshly washed laundry should smell fresh. If it doesn’t or even smells, the washing machine may need cleaning. Six tips on how to get rid of the annoying smell from the washing machine.

To ensure that laundry not only looks sparkling clean after the wash cycle, but also smells that way, detergent manufacturers add plenty of fragrances to their products. But in times of economy programs and low-temperature washes, it’s becoming more and more common for the washing machine to stink.

1. Washing at high temperatures

If you wash your laundry exclusively in the low temperature range at 20, 30 or 40 degrees, a biofilm can form inside the machine where bacteria and fungi live. Then it can smell musty and stale from the machine.

To prevent odors, you should therefore clean your laundry once or twice a month at 60 degrees and with heavy-duty detergent. This detergent contains bleach and, together with the higher washing temperatures in powder or granule form or as a tab, ensures that the biofilm in the washing machine dissolves. Furthermore, additional washing cycles such as pre-wash and another rinse cycle may be useful.

Tip: You should wash your laundry at higher temperatures up to 90 degrees if you or a person in your household suffers from a contagious or notifiable disease.

2. Clean the door rubber of the washing machine

As another measure against stench from the washing machine, you can clean and dry the bull’s eye rubber every now and then – preferably after each wash cycle. Moisture and washing residues collect in the fold of the door rubber with every wash, providing an ideal breeding ground for germs and bacteria. If you push back the fold in the rubber and notice a greasy coating, you should remove it with a cloth.

Tip: The exterior of the machine can be cleaned with an all-purpose cleaner and a soft cloth, even the door of the feed opening is cleaned in this way from the outside and from the inside. Dust and detergent from the grooves of the control panel remove toothpicks or shish kebabs.

To prevent the deposit from forming in the first place, it is important to always leave the door open after washing. This allows the residual moisture to escape from the entire interior. The germs are thus deprived of the moist environment in which they feel most at home.

Tip: After each wash cycle, check whether paper tissues, loose change or paper clips from trouser pockets have accumulated in the rubber seal around the filling opening. Such objects can damage the rubber and must therefore be removed after each wash.

3. Cleaning the lint filter of the washing machine

Another possible source of the unpleasant smell is the lint filter. The sieve is usually hidden behind a small door in the lower right or left corner of the washing machine and catches the textile fibers that come off the clothes during washing. If it is not cleaned regularly, mold can form on the wet lint. The musty smell emanating from it also remains in the laundry.

For cleaning, the foreign body trap – that’s the official name for the lint filter – can be removed. However, you must be careful of the residual water that is still in the machine. Some machines have a hose that you can use to drain the water. In other models, the water simply flows out when you open the lint filter. It’s usually enough to clean the small trap about twice a year or as needed – unless otherwise stated in the instruction manual.

Tip: Sometimes, however, small parts such as small change are fished out of the water by the foreign object trap. If a lot of buttons and coins accumulate here, the strainer can become clogged. The machine then pumps out the water more poorly or more slowly.

4. Clean the rinse chamber of the washing machine.

Fungi or bacteria can also spread in the rinse chamber over time and form slimy or black layers after a while. Therefore, you should also clean the detergent compartment from time to time and leave it open a gap after washing so that it can dry.

For cleaning, first loosen the latch and then pull out the whole compartment. The latch is usually not difficult to find – often you just press on a specific spot marked for it. If in doubt, check the instruction manual.

You can clean the detergent drawer under running water or – even better – soak the incrustations in the sink first and then scrub the deposits off with an old toothbrush.

Tip: In areas with calciferous water, it makes sense to clean the injection nozzles as well. The water runs through them into the induction bowl. If these become calcified, the detergent can no longer be completely dissolved out of the chamber during washing.

5. Decalcify washing machine regularly

Germs and bacteria also like to settle on lime deposits. Therefore, it is important to decalcify the washing machine regularly. To prevent calcification, the detergent should always be dosed exactly according to the package instructions. Read here how you can best descale your machine.

Descaling is recommended for cost reasons alone. A calcified machine increases energy consumption considerably. According to calculations by the German Environmental Protection Agency, limescale deposits of as little as five millimeters on heating elements mean that an appliance requires 30 percent more energy. In addition, the laundry suffers: white fabrics turn gray over time, and the colors of colored textiles lose their radiance.

Tip: To prevent fresh laundry from becoming smelly, it is best to always hang up your laundry directly and do not leave it in the washing machine for longer. Also, choose the right amount of detergent: the dosage depends on the amount of laundry, the degree of soiling and the local water hardness.

6. Clean washing machine with home remedies

The washing machine can also be cleaned with some inexpensive home remedies. But not every agent is really suitable for the machine.

• Citric acid: it can be used to descale and clean the washing machine. You need 100 grams of the acid, which you dissolve in two liters of water. Put the solution in the detergent compartment and run the empty machine at 60 or 90 degrees. After that, the washing machine will smell fresh lemon.
  Vinegar: In addition to citric acid, vinegar essence is often suggested for descaling washing machines. Not a good idea: vinegar and vinegar essence can damage plastic hoses and other small parts in the washing machine in the long run.
• Soda: The powder is a good home remedy to clean the washing machine, because it removes bad odors. Simply run the empty washing machine with 50 grams of baking soda in the detergent compartment at a minimum of 60 degrees.

Dishwasher tabs: although they help clean the washing machine, they are only recommended to a limited extent against calcification. To clean, simply add the dishwasher tabs to the empty drum and use a 60 or 90 degree wash cycle.

No success by cleaning: Drain pump defective?

If there is no success after these cleaning measures, a defective drain pump could also be the cause of the odor.

A small leak is enough to form a puddle inside the machine, which begins to smell over time.